We’ve explored our way through Quebec from north to south, moving from small town to big city.
When we entered the province, the normally bilingual road signs seemed to be missing their English words. A friend would later tell us stories of growing up in Montreal, with referendums over the province separating from Canada, and shops being fined if they had any English signage. All that is 20 years ago now, but Quebec is still officially stubborn about being French.
We started on rural roads, winding along valleys beneath wooded hills, past little farms that looked like they spent a lot of winter buried in snow. Between the signage and the scenery, it sure felt like we were rolling through French countryside. Not that I’ve ever been to France, but I could practically see the farmers sipping red wine as they drove their tractors.
The highlight was definitely Pointe-au-Pere. The site of a historic reinforced concrete lighthouse on the St Lawrence River, it now also has the only submarine open to public viewing in Canada, and a memorial to a shipwrecked passenger liner. We could overnight the RV out on the river for free, on a giant rock pier. And boulders armouring the pier were so huge the kids spent hours exploring over and under them. We also had a big disappointment here, when Ryan and I couldn’t go on the sleepover in the submarine because the programme wasn’t bilingual. If only I’d taken my high school French more seriously 
Quebec City was a nice little stop. On our first night, there was a fireworks competition on the river, which was pretty cool. We actually based ourselves across the river from Quebec, in the city of Levis. It was a short ferry ride across to the old quarter, and we discovered a daytime carpark right next to the river where we could overnight for no additional charge. The last afternoon we booked a tour of the historic battlements, guided by a Parks Canada ranger. We were the only ones to book the English speaking tour, so we had the guide to ourselves for two hours, as he lead us past canons, along the citadel, and through barracks.
Montreal was a bit of an anti-climax. I’m not sure what we were expecting, but we just didn’t click with the city. We visited Parc du Mont-Royal, which had the same designer as Central Park in New York, but the lookouts were all overgrown except for at the main visitors centre. The next day we checked out a Parks Canada site on the fur trade and then headed south for Ontario and friends we haven’t seen in a long time. Au revoir Quebec.
The Pointe-au-Pere lighthouse has a pretty unique structure, being one of the few lighthouses in North America made from concrete. It has a beautiful Gothic-spire feel to it – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
Enjoying the last of the day’s light before we settle down for our first night in Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
The Onondaga, stuck above the water as the sun sinks below the horizon – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
The lighthouse at low tide. We had a great time scrambling over the rocks – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
Checking the ledge for slipperiness as a tidal pool drains back to the river. My spot taking the photo was just as dodgy, over a rock pool – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
The kids climbing underneath the giant boulders that armour the pier – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec
Inside the control room of the Onondaga – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
Sunset photo from our camping spot at the end of the pier – Pointe-au-pere, Quebec.
Sunrise, after parking on the pier overnight – Pointe-au-pere, Quebec.
We woke to a whale doing laps of the bay next to the pier. It was pretty cool to watch it cruise around before it finally headed off up-river and we headed south – Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec.
Catching up at the end of the day, while Joella takes photos out the RV window – Leclercville Municipal Campground, Quebec.
Troy working on a giant marshmallow ‘smores – Leclercville Municipal Campground, Quebec.
Quebec City as we all wait for the fireworks show to start – Quebec City, Quebec.
It’s terrible luck, rolling into town in time for a fireworks competition down at the river! – Quebec City, Quebec.
The waterfall, and the stairs we had to climb. We’re not as fit as we used to be :-( – Parc de la Chute, Montmorency, Quebec.
Wikipedia says this is the most photographed hotel in the world. It was built as a luxury accommodation to attract rich travellers to the Canadian Pacific Railway network. It was completed in 1893 – Quebec City, Quebec.
The view from our camping spot for one of the nights visiting Quebec City. Although this side of the river is actually Levis City – Quebec.
Relaxing at the bottom of the citadel that overlooks the city. We were the only people to sign for the English speaking tour that afternoon, so we had the guide to ourselves, which was pretty cool – Quebec City, Quebec.
The kids enjoying one of the street performers that Quebec City is famous for. Each performer had 30 minutes and then another crew would come on. These street performers were much more gentle than the ones we saw in New York and Boston, which had just felt like watching the crowd being shaken down for cash – Quebec City, Quebec.
The really old part of the old city, now a very trendy, bustling tourist area – Quebec City, Quebec.
Just your run of the mill window decoration in the old city – Quebec City, Quebec.
Team photo after riding some of the cycle trail next to the St Lawrence River, across from Quebec City.
Checking out the city from Parc du Mont-Royal. This was the only lookout on the hill that wasn’t overgrown :-( – Montreal, Quebec.
The Croix du Mont Royal. But seeing as Canada is bilingual, I can call it the Mount Royal Cross, even if the Quebecan government won’t – Montreal, Quebec.
Cute detailing in the roof of the giant visitor centre in Parc du Mont-Royal – Montreal, Quebec.
Real animal furs on display to touch and feel. And they were so soft too, no wonder they make such nice coats – The Lachine Fur Trade National Historic Site, Montreal.
Paddling a load of animal skins to market. The last bit of exercise the kids got before we headed for Otawa – The Lachine Fur Trade National Historic Site, Montreal.
